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Doors, Windows, and Vents in Earthbag Buildings |
Q: This is a question regarding building an earthbag dome - is there a limit to how many windows you can include in the structure? A: There are various ways to introduce windows for lighting into earthbag domes. Basically any circular or arched shape can usually be accommodated, including a triangle with one of the corners pointing upward. As long as the windows are well-constructed and integrated into the structure, there is no limit as to how many you have. One way to get a lot of light into a space is to use a glass door of some sort. Q: I have some discarded rectangular double glazed windows I'd like to use in the structure. Any reason why I couldn't fit a wooden lintel resting on the bags over the top of the window or do window openings have to be arched or triangular? A: If you can calculate that whatever lintel you use can support the weight of whatever is above it, this would probably work. Arches, circles, and pyramid shaped triangular openings are inherently more stable and more likely to last over time. Q: Can you put a glass circular skylight to finish a dome structure? A: I see no reason why a circular glass or plastic dome skylight couldn't be placed at the apex of an earthbag dome, especially if there is a rigid metal frame that can be integrated with the bag structure somehow. Q: Pictures of earthbag arches give the impression the bags are nice and uniform from front to back. But actually they are tapering to create a dome, correct? If I bevel everything to fit the natural shape of the dome, I should be OK, right? A: With most of the earthbag arches that I made at my house, I placed the sewn bags the long way over the arch form, so that they were quite a bit thicker than the wall in general. This way the arch was formed vertical and the dome wall traveled along the length of the arch depending on where it needed to go to keep the dome shape flowing. I do remember that on one occasion, with the 6' arch in the bedroom, that I did have to angle the arch bags inward somewhat to allow the dome shape to continue, and this worked out just fine. Q: I will be installing some type of fireplace, please can you give me some suggestions as to how to provide for the chimney! A: When I put in the pipe for my wood stove, I used stainless steel "Metalbestos" pipe that is designed for zero clearance situations and is safe to imbed right in the earthbag wall. This same pipe can be used for a fireplace. Q: I am nervous about plumbing and earthbag walls - Paulina implies it can be done, but her description is fairly brief. A: I actually used wood framing in the wall between my utility space (with washer and dryer and water heater) and the bathroom, because there was so much plumbing to fit there that it was far easier to do that. On the other hand, you can run water lines in the cracks between bags and even through bag wall (either by leaving larger pipe chases or even pounding the pipe through wall later)...so you can go either way. Q: When you put your water plumbing into the house from outside, is there some trick that I need to know? A: I placed mine underground below the frost line to enter the house, and then came up through the floor where I needed it. If frost is not an issue, then it would be possible to just poke the pipe directly through the wall while you are building it, or even pound a section of steel pipe through after the fact. Q: The climate in Malaysia is hot and humid as we are only a few degrees from the equator. I do wonder about the suitability of the dome shape - especially the roof in this climate. How do we ensure enough ventilation? A: I provided ventilation in the earthbag domes that I have built by arranging inlet air vents near ground level, and outlet vents at the very top of the dome. This worked very well, and is easy to do with large diameter pipe (I used inflated tether balls as vent closures). You could feel the air rush by with the convection current! Q: I have a question on how you installed the cart-wagonwheel as a window in your earthbag house. Did you use a form of some kind and after removed that and installed the wheel? Or did you build around the wheel? The reason I ask is because I have doubts if the wheel has enough width to support the bags that go over the wheel and that still have to harden after tamping. A: I did not use a form for this, but I was fortunate enough to find some very wide-rimmed old wheels that were able to support the bags directly. With smaller width wheels it might be possible to place a wide steel plate that curved over the top of the wheel to support the upper bags (the sides and bottom are not really a problem for thinner rims). |
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